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In the 1970s there was a big change in the way men's underwear was marketed. "Elite men's underwear over the course of the 20th century was often made out of what we think of as women's fabrics like silk," Steele says. She was surprised by details like embroidered hammers and sickles, but also by the delicacy of its fabric. In the course of her research, Steele came across a collection of men's underwear from Soviet Russia. Valerie Steele, the director of the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and the author of "Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power," traces men's lingerie to at least the 1920s. "Huge" is a relative term, since gender-inclusive clothing still represents less than 1 per cent of all clothes sold in the United States, according to WGSN. And for the fashion industry, for our clients at WGSN, this is a huge deal." "You've got a whole generation who is just very embracing of the inclusivity and diversity within gender. "Men's lingerie is one small part of a bigger movement," says Francesca Muston, the vice president of fashion content at WGSN, a trend forecasting company. Lingerie sales have been strong during the pandemic, and many lingerie-makers see an untapped market for men that tracks another apparel trend: the rise of gender-expansive clothing. The boxers sold out in two days and have a wait list of more than 500 people, according to Jennifer Zuccarini, the brand's founder. Photograph: Justin J Wee/The New York TimesĪnd Fleur du Mal, an upscale lingerie line with stores in New York and Los Angeles, recently introduced a Fleur Pour Homme collection, including boxers made from sheer lace. Lacey thongs and sheer undergarments for men are shaking up the traditional lingerie market. “You want to wear some lace thong underwear? Go right ahead.” Many of the customers, Pendarvis added, were not the girlfriends, partners or spouses, but the male buyers themselves. "We were blown away." A racy collection with cherry-red harnesses and mesh crop tops was released this year for Valentine's Day. "It sold out in 12 hours, the entire thing," says Christiane Pendarvis, the brand's chief merchandising officer. Savage x Fenty, the lingerie brand started by Rihanna, released its first men's collection in 2020. "I converted my father," Campello says, referring to the company's co-founder, Ugo Campello. That remains to be seen, but he did convince one of his toughest customers. “There’s a segment of the population that’s like, ‘Absolutely,’” he says, referring to what he calls fashion-forward customers including gay men and nonbinary people. "It's half the world's population just in terms of market size," says Guido Campello (41), the company's co-chief executive.Ĭampello knows not everyone is ready. Mainstream brands are getting in on the action, too.Ĭosabella, an Italian lingerie brand founded by a husband and wife in 1983, began selling lacy men's briefs, semi-sheer thongs and colorful G-strings on its website last November.
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“Your gender expression is all that matters,” reads the website for Wicked Mmm, a lingerie brand in Montreal.
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Many are by upstart brands with names like Menagerié, Candyman Fashion and Ciciful, often marketed with body- and sex-positive messages. You've got a whole generation who is just very embracing of the inclusivity and diversity within gender' 'Men's lingerie is one small part of a bigger movement. Men’s lingerie is taking off among a self-possessed segment of male consumers looking for sexy undergarments that are more gender expansive than a jockstrap. “They actually are being thoughtful to a more masculine body, with complements to femininity.” Then one day, while scrolling through Instagram, he came across a company called Leak NYC, a men's lingerie brand that makes sexy bodysuits from fishnet and other see-through materials, with ample room up front. “Either it would be very small or I would find something that would look good from the back,” Dawson says.Īs a workaround, he would wear the lingerie backward or buy larger sizes. But he found that the bodysuits and bottoms didn't fit well. As a multidisciplinary artist who explores Black and queer identity, 27-year-old LaQuann Dawson often takes self-portraits from his home and studio in Brooklyn wearing women's lingerie.